In this video, I go through the process of designing and making a ring cluster necklace with cubic zirconia drops. This technique would have been tedious to make using traditional gold smithing flame and flux method because the wires are fine and stone drops are involved.
Because we are using briolette beads that are able to hide weld marks, this method can be used with sterling silver as well as gold filled wire, which exposes the core brass when welding. You can also wear the pendant in a short cluster by threading the chain through each of the larger rings.
Step-by-Step Guide to Creating Your Necklace
Selecting the Right Wire
To begin, choosing the appropriate wire is crucial. We need a wire thin enough to pass through the bead’s drill hole but thick enough to be easily welded and maintain its shape. For this project, I’m using 24-gauge gold-filled wire. It’s important to note that when welding gold-filled wire, a slight dark mark may appear over time due to moisture exposure, revealing the brass core. However, this can be cleverly concealed within the design.
Welding Tips
I’m demonstrating using sterling silver without argon gas or pre-cleaning to show how imperfections can be hidden. The key is to tuck the welded section into a frosted drill hole, where discoloration will be less visible. Hammering the sides helps the wire stay in place while keeping the hole large enough to allow for adjustment without warping.
Creating Circles
To create the circles for your ring cluster necklace, you can use a jump ring maker or any circular object with a constant diameter, like a pen or dowel. Ensure that your chosen tool is not tapered, as this could lead to uneven circles. Soft wire is preferable for easy wrapping. If using crooked wire, straighten it first and temper it on a hammering block for smoother results. Wrap the wire perpendicularly for perfect circles, as diagonal wrapping tends to create ovals.
Cutting and Forming
Once you’ve wrapped your wire, mark the spots to cut, ensuring consistency in size. You’ll end up with several identical rings. Open and weld them as needed, ensuring the wire ends touch for a strong bond. Use pliers to make adjustments if necessary.
Assembling the Ring Cluster Necklace
For a cluster necklace, you’ll need to plan the placement of your rings and drops. If using flat drops, they will lay flat against the neck when worn as a necklace. Consider the orientation if you’re designing earrings, as drops may hang differently. Experiment with different colors and sizes for added visual interest.
Connecting Rings
When connecting rings, use smaller rings to avoid dark marks from welding. Make sure the wire ends are flush by using a flush cutter. If they’re not touching well, use pliers to press them together before welding. For drops, start from the bottom and work upwards to adjust for weight and balance.
Finishing Touches For your Ring Cluster Necklace
If your welded circles aren’t perfectly round, use a tool to round them out. Once satisfied with the shape, hammer them to keep the stones in place. If the wire is too thin, create a slight kink on either side of the stone to secure it. Alternatively, flatten the wire with pliers for a snug fit.
Adding the Final Touches
Finish your necklace by attaching a small ring to ensure the drops don’t slide. Consider adding texturing to parts of the design for added character. Whether you wear it as a necklace or earrings, this piece will surely be a conversation starter.
Thank you for joining me in creating this beautiful piece. If you enjoyed this episode, please like and subscribe—it really helps my algorithm. I’d love to know where you’re tuning in from, so drop a comment with your city and let’s connect!
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